Q: What Upstate “neighborhood” begins near the U.S.-Canadian border and ends 319 miles away at the New York-Pennsylvania border?
A: The Upstate New York portion of U.S. Route 11, built between 1924 and 1927. It eventually meanders southwesterly through nine more states until it ends up in the steamy Bayou Sauvage area near New Orleans, the terminus of its 1,645-mile length.
Interestingly, the road has French antecedents at both ends — French Canadians in New York and their descendants the Acadians (Cajuns) in Louisiana.
The iconic highway actually is a series of multi-lane thoroughfares and narrow two-lane roads running through the middle of Smalltown U.S.A. in New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, West Virginia, Virginia, Tennessee, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi and Louisiana.
Along its way motorists are exposed to mid-size cities, small towns, villages, and hamlets often avoided because modern interstate highways divert traffic away from them. I-81, for example, mirrors Route 11 along much of its length. And, think how the 1970s creation of I-88 siphoned travelers away from the small towns along once-bustling Route 7 from Schenectady to Binghamton.
For those travelers in no particular hurry — and perhaps interested in seeing more than fleeing — Upstate NY has plenty of attractions on or near Route 11 in eight counties from the Clinton County village of Rouses Point down through the Broome County town of Kirkwood where the road dips into Pennsylvania.
So, as a bit of a guide for such curiosity seekers and a salute to the number of the highway, here are 11 offbeat places to stop on the Upstate NY leg of Route 11, from north to south. Some are on Route 11, others a short detour away.
SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN HISTORY CENTER
This facility is located in the village of Champlain, five miles west of Rouses Point in a onetime stone and brick bank building constructed in 1880 on the bank of the Great Chazy River. It is a good spot to learn about the region’s French connection, from Champlain the explorer (1567-1835) to Champlain the lake. It houses a large collection of antiques and images from the area as well as historical books and documents detailing its ethnic evolution.
After reaching Champlain village, Route 11 turns sharply west to run through the Adirondack communities of Malone, Potsdam, Canton, and so on down to the Watertown area. This natural wonder, also known as Chateaugay Falls, spills 120 feet through a channel naturally cut into the native stone. Pull off Route 11 and travel a mere 10 minutes to gain access by hiking path and a series of stairs to the base of the chasm.
The museum and library facility, operated by the Akwesasne Mohawk Nation, is open to the public. It provides display space for art created by Native Americans, looks at historic and modern life among the region’s indigenous people, and the recently-renovated space also includes audio and video exhibits. It is located near Hogansburg, a 20-mile detour off Route 1 at Malone, just below where the U.S.-Canada border runs through the St. Lawrence River. Well worth the side trip.
Potsdam, where Route 11 runs right through, has more attractions than the average 17,000-population town, anchored by SUNY Potsdam and all the cultural attractions a college brings to a community. The Art Museum, known for years as the Gibson Gallery, now stresses the museum name to emphasize its broad range of collections, exhibitions, and interpretations of quality works of art from the 20th and 21st centuries, and offers a study collection of other works that are pre-20th century. On June 21 it will unveil the SUNY Pride Art Gallery that celebrates the creative works of SUNY students and faculty members representing LGBT inclusion.
Businesses on East Main Street include The TAUNY Center. TAUNY (Traditional Arts in Upstate NY) is a non-profit organization dedicated to helping people understand and appreciate the folk culture and living traditions of the North Country.SYR
The name of this venue on Canton’s Main Street comes from the acronym for Traditional Arts in Upstate New York. It is dedicated to showcasing the folk culture and living traditions of the North Country with changing exhibits. It also houses the North Country Folkstore, which features locally-made items by artists and producers from around the region.
The New York State Zoo in Watertown, N.Y. is 32 acres large and the second most-visited attraction in the Thousand Islands region.SYR
NEW YORK STATE ZOO AT THOMPSON PARK
One of two zoos on our hypothetical trail (the other is in Binghamton), this Watertown, Jefferson County, attraction is a 32-acre complex now celebrating its 100th year. It is the only zoo anywhere that exhibits only species native to New York State, including both abundant and threatened or endangered animals — including wolverines, black bears, eagles, mountain lions, Canada lynx, grey wolves, turtles, bald eagles, etc. Open daily through October.
Boaters depart from Lock 23 on the Erie Canal as they resume their journey toward Lake Ontario after being stranded at the lock due to high water conditions.
For anyone who hasn’t visited one of the locks on the historic canal way that stretches across Upstate, this arguably is the best place to start. It’s just a short diversion off Route 11 from Brewerton, and is the busiest spot on the canal -- between Oneida Lake and Lake Ontario -- which increases the chances of seeing the mechanical progression of taking vessels through. There also is a small park with tables and grills for visitors. (For research purposes, don’t confuse this lock with Enlarged Double Lock 23 on the Old Erie Canal section in Rotterdam, Schenectady County.)
At Oneida Shores an Onondaga County park some people went to cool off.Dennis Nett | dnett@syracuse.com
Sometimes a long car trip necessitates a stop to stretch the legs. This Brewerton spot perched on the shore of Oneida Lake’s Muskrat Bay is a good spot for an hour or two or even an overnight stop. It offers sports features, water activities, canoe and kayak rentals, picnic shelters, and a beach by the playgrounds. More than 50 shaded campsites are available for tenting and RV camping with electricity and water supply. In winter, it offers cross-country skiing on the McKinley Ridge Trail.
Tractors of Yesteryear exhibit at the Central New York Living History Center, Cortland, N.Y.
This Cortland complex, smack on Route 11, actually is three entities in one under the auspices of the Homer Cortland Community Agency. Each pertains to different aspects of history. The Homeville Museum focuses on military and local history, the Brockway museum focuses on Brockway Trucks and their history, and Tractors of Yesteryear focuses on agricultural mechanical history.
The Bundy Museum of History and Art at the former Bundy home in Binghamton.
Ever wonder where some of the world’s corporate giants came from? In the late 1800s, Binghamton brothers Willard and Harlow Bundy invented a time-recording clock to keep track of their workers’ hours. Their company later changed its name to International Business Machines (IBM). This preserved Queen Anne-style mansion that was Harlow Bundy’s home now offers a time clock collection, a barbershop exhibit, original TV and film props from “The Twilight Zone” (created by local writer Rod Serling), and rotating art galleries.
Snowy Owl at the Binghamton Zoo at Ross Park.
This 90-acre spread within the Binghamton city limits not far from Route 11′s terminus in the state is the fifth oldest zoo in the United States (founded 1875). Besides an impressively wide variety of wildlife, it has an equally impressive variety of endangered species, including the African penguin, amur leopard, black-and-white ruffed lemur, golden-headed lion tamarin, red panda, red wolf, and snow leopard. Daily talks by zookeepers are a highlight. Unfortunately for visitors, the park train and the carousel currently are undergoing renovations.
William M. Dowd, a longtime journalist and editor, is the author and publisher of Dowd’s Guides, a collection of specialty museum directories around the nation.
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